Red River Gorge: The biggest holds you’ll fall off of
Johnny B. Good 5.11a in the Galley within PMRP
Red River Gorge: Your Ultimate Climbing Destination Guide
The Red River Gorge (RRG), a climber's paradise nestled in Kentucky, beckons with its world-renowned sandstone cliffs and endless routes. But before you pack your gear and hit the road, this guide will equip you with everything you need to know for an epic climbing trip.
When to Climb:
While scaling the Red River Gorge is possible year-round, the sweet spot lies between late fall and early winter. Humidity is the enemy here, transforming seemingly impossible holds in the summer's sticky embrace into rest spots during the crisp winter months. To snag the best weather forecast (beta) for your climb, check out the awesome Sendex Report: Sendex Report
Getting There:
The Red River Gorge calls to you from Slade, Kentucky, located east of Lexington. Lexington Blue Grass Airport (LEX) is your ideal landing spot. If flights are limited, consider Cincinnati/Northern Kentucky International Airport (CVG) as an alternative. Stock up on supplies in Lexington or Stanton before venturing deeper into Slade, where options become more limited.
Where to Stay:
No Red River Gorge trip is complete without experiencing the legendary Miguel's Pizza & Climbing Resort. The camping and the tight-knit climbing community here are simply unmatched.
For those who prefer a roof over their heads, the BedRock RRG Lodge and Hostel offers a mid-range option. Airbnb availability is also on the rise, while Beattyville serves as a good base if you plan to focus your climbing on the Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP)/Miller Fork Recreational Preserve (BMRP) sectors.
Beating the Crowds:
Peak season in the fall can get a little crowded at certain crags. Drive-by Crag in PMRP and Solarium in Muir Valley are notorious for overflowing with climbers, even on weekdays.
The good news? The Red River Gorge is a vast playground. Try having a back up plan. If Solarium has leaders shouting to their belayer “I’m just going to rest here for a minute”, the Arsenal is next door with Bathtub Mary as an awesome alternative to Air Ride Equipped. 3 parties waiting to get on Breakfast Burrito in Drive-by? Head over to Chica Bonita. RRG is massive - use this to your advantage to not wait in line all day.
Bonus Tip: Rest day activities are numerous in RRG, with amazing hikes around the natural bridges. If you want to catch up on caffeine in a great coffee shop, Daniel Boone Coffee Shop has legit coffee, as well as comfortable lounge areas to catch up on what’s going on in the world while you’ve been busy crushing.