Climbing at Red Rock: Endless Options
Rock Climbing at Red Rock Canyon.
Climbing at Red Rock - Flameblower 5.10d
Red Rocks National Conservation Area, just outside of Las Vegas, Nevada, is a world-renowned rock climbing destination. With its stunning red sandstone cliffs, moderate temperatures, and diverse climbing options, it's no wonder climbers flock here year-round. But to make the most of your trip, there are some key things to consider.
Shoulder Seasons are your Sweet Spot:
While climbing is possible year-round, spring and fall are the ideal times to visit. However, consider times outside March and November. April and October provide excellent climbing temps especially in the shade with sometimes less people. These shoulder months offer longer daylight hours, allowing you to extend your climbing sessions into the pleasant evenings. Also consider daylight savings time changes, which impact when the scenic loop is open.
Getting There is Easy:
Las Vegas' accessibility makes Red Rocks a climber's dream. With plentiful flights from both the east and west coasts, getting to the Strip is a breeze.
Lodging Options for Every Climber:
Las Vegas offers a variety of lodging options, but consider your priorities. Staying on the Strip is perfect for those who want to experience the vibrant city life, but keep in mind the constant traffic can make reaching Red Rocks a hassle.
The Red Rock Casino on Charleston Blvd offers a good compromise. It provides the convenience of casino amenities while being the closest lodging to the climbing area. Budget-minded climbers can opt for the Red Rock Campground, but be prepared to book early as spots fill up fast. For those seeking unique rentals, keep in mind that Summerlin has restrictions on Airbnbs. Rentals must be for a month or longer to comply with local regulations.
Epic Climbing Areas Await:
Red Rocks caters to all climbing styles, from traditional and sport climbing to bouldering. A multi-pitch climb at Black Velvet Canyon is a must-do. Here, you'll be surrounded by stunning scenery while tackling classic routes like Epinephrine, Prince of Darkness, and Frogland.
Sport climbers will find joy at the Running Man Wall and Stratocaster areas. And for the boulderers, a day spent exploring Kraft Boulders is a must. Don't miss iconic problems like Monkey Bar, Hot Tub, and Plumbers Crack to understand why so many climbers rave about this area.
So pack your gear, book your flight for the shoulder season, and get ready to experience some world-class climbing at Red Rocks National Conservation Area.
Red River Gorge: The biggest holds you’ll fall off of
Overhangs and Big Holds is the Name of the Game.
Johnny B. Good 5.11a in the Galley within PMRP
Red River Gorge: Your Ultimate Climbing Destination Guide
The Red River Gorge (RRG), a climber's paradise nestled in Kentucky, beckons with its world-renowned sandstone cliffs and endless routes. But before you pack your gear and hit the road, this guide will equip you with everything you need to know for an epic climbing trip.
When to Climb:
While scaling the Red River Gorge is possible year-round, the sweet spot lies between late fall and early winter. Humidity is the enemy here, transforming seemingly impossible holds in the summer's sticky embrace into rest spots during the crisp winter months. To snag the best weather forecast (beta) for your climb, check out the awesome Sendex Report: Sendex Report
Getting There:
The Red River Gorge calls to you from Slade, Kentucky, located east of Lexington. Lexington Blue Grass Airport (LEX) is your ideal landing spot. If flights are limited, consider Cincinnati/Northern Kentucky International Airport (CVG) as an alternative. Stock up on supplies in Lexington or Stanton before venturing deeper into Slade, where options become more limited.
Where to Stay:
No Red River Gorge trip is complete without experiencing the legendary Miguel's Pizza & Climbing Resort. The camping and the tight-knit climbing community here are simply unmatched.
For those who prefer a roof over their heads, the BedRock RRG Lodge and Hostel offers a mid-range option. Airbnb availability is also on the rise, while Beattyville serves as a good base if you plan to focus your climbing on the Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP)/Miller Fork Recreational Preserve (BMRP) sectors.
Beating the Crowds:
Peak season in the fall can get a little crowded at certain crags. Drive-by Crag in PMRP and Solarium in Muir Valley are notorious for overflowing with climbers, even on weekdays.
The good news? The Red River Gorge is a vast playground. Try having a back up plan. If Solarium has leaders shouting to their belayer “I’m just going to rest here for a minute”, the Arsenal is next door with Bathtub Mary as an awesome alternative to Air Ride Equipped. 3 parties waiting to get on Breakfast Burrito in Drive-by? Head over to Chica Bonita. RRG is massive - use this to your advantage to not wait in line all day.
Bonus Tip: Rest day activities are numerous in RRG, with amazing hikes around the natural bridges. If you want to catch up on caffeine in a great coffee shop, Daniel Boone Coffee Shop has legit coffee, as well as comfortable lounge areas to catch up on what’s going on in the world while you’ve been busy crushing.