Finding Your Perfect Climb: How to Spot a Stellar Local Rock Climbing Guidebook

So you've packed your harness, racked your carabiners, and your thirst for adventure is at an all-time high. Now comes the crucial part: picking the perfect crag to tackle. A trusty local guidebook is your golden ticket to a day of unforgettable sends (completing a climb) and breathtaking scenery. You may think you can use Mountain Project for places to climb, but some of these features make the investment in a guide book worth it. How do you find the one that speaks to your climbing style and ignites your stoke? Here's the lowdown on what makes a local guidebook a rockstar:

Dialing in Your Grade:

The best guidebooks categorize climbs by ability level, grouping them into ranges (like 5.7-5.9) This way, you can find a selection that matches your current skillset, preventing frustrating days spent staring blankly at out-of-reach routes.

Example of a stellar guidebook for Boulder Canyon

Sport or Trad? Know Your Preference:

Do you crave the thrill of clipping bolts, or the cerebral challenge of placing your own gear? A good guidebook will split climbs into sport and trad sections, catering to both climbing disciplines.

Sun or Shade? Your Choice:

Nobody likes baking in the afternoon sun while trying to decipher a crux sequence. A stellar guidebook will include sun and shade information for each cliff, allowing you to plan your climbing day strategically and avoid getting roasted (or frozen) mid-climb.

Gearing Up for Success:

Knowing what kind of protection you'll need is crucial. A helpful guidebook will include details like the number of bolts on sport climbs and recommended gear placements for trad routes.

The Heartbeat of the Crag:

Climbing isn't just about physical exertion; it's a deep connection with the environment and history of the area. The best guidebooks weave in local stories, historical tidbits, and quirky anecdotes about the climbs. These personal touches add a layer of richness to your climbing experience.

Keeping it Current: App It Up!

The climbing world is constantly evolving, with new route development happening all the time. Check online to see if your shortlisted guidebooks have companion apps that offer updates on newly bolted climbs or area closures.

By prioritizing these features, you'll be well on your way to selecting a local guidebook that becomes your dog-eared companion on countless climbing adventures. You’re also supporting local efforts, as many guidebooks give some proceeds back to local climbing organizations of the Access Fund. Happy trails (and sends)!